Crossing into Green Spain: Leon to Betanzos
Leaving Leon behind, the landscape begins one of the most dramatic transformations anywhere on the Iberian Peninsula. The dry, golden meseta gives way to rolling green hills, dense eucalyptus forests, and misty valleys as we cross into Galicia. It feels like riding from southern Europe straight into Ireland within the space of a few hours. The air turns cooler and carries the scent of damp earth and pine, and the roads wind through narrow valleys where granite villages appear around every bend.
Betanzos is a hidden gem of Galicia — a compact medieval town nestled between two rivers that most tourists overlook entirely. The old quarter is a maze of stone streets, Gothic churches, and covered arcades where locals gather for the afternoon. But the real reason food lovers make the pilgrimage here is the tortilla de Betanzos, a runny, custardy Spanish omelette that has been declared the best in all of Spain. We found a small bar in the main square and ordered one straight away — golden on the outside, gloriously creamy within. It alone was worth the ride from Leon.
Route Highlights
- The stunning transition from the dry Castilian meseta into the lush green landscapes of Galicia
- Mountain passes through the borderlands of Leon and Lugo provinces
- Betanzos’ beautiful medieval old town with its Gothic churches and stone arcades
- Tasting the legendary tortilla de Betanzos — widely regarded as Spain’s finest tortilla
- Quiet Galician back roads winding through eucalyptus forests and granite hamlets
Travel Tips
Galicia receives more rainfall than anywhere else in Spain, so waterproof gear is essential even in summer. The roads from Leon into Galicia climb through several mountain passes that can be foggy in the morning — ride with your lights on and take it steady. In Betanzos, head to the Plaza de los Hermanos Garcia Naveira and try the tortilla at any of the bars surrounding the square. The town is also famous for its Fiesta de San Roque in August, where a giant paper balloon is launched from the main church. Accommodation in Betanzos is affordable and far less crowded than nearby A Coruna.
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