Into Andalusia: Cave Houses and Rock Overhangs
Leaving the coastal warmth of La Manga behind, we turn south and west into Andalusia — the heartland of everything people imagine when they think of Spain. Today is a long riding day that covers some truly extraordinary places. Our first major stop is Guadix, a town in the province of Granada that is famous for its barrio de cuevas — an entire neighbourhood of cave houses carved into the soft sandstone hillside. Thousands of people still live in these caves, which maintain a naturally cool temperature even in the blistering Andalusian summer. Walking through the streets of whitewashed cave entrances with their chimneys poking out of the ground above is one of the most unique experiences in Spain.
From Guadix we push further into Andalusia, passing through Villanueva before arriving at the jaw-dropping village of Setenil de las Bodegas. If Guadix is unusual, Setenil is extraordinary. Here, the houses are not carved into the rock but built directly under massive natural rock overhangs, with the cliff face forming the roofs and back walls of homes, shops, and bars. The main street runs through a gorge where enormous boulders hang overhead, creating a natural canopy. Sitting in a bar with a solid rock ceiling above you while sipping a cold beer on a hot summer evening is an experience that stays with you long after you leave.
Route Highlights
- Guadix’s cave house neighbourhood — thousands of inhabited cave dwellings
- Setenil de las Bodegas — houses built under massive rock overhangs
- The dramatic Andalusian landscape of olive groves and dry river valleys
- Riding through the province of Granada with the Sierra Nevada in the distance
- Traditional Andalusian villages with whitewashed walls and flower-filled balconies
Travel Tips
Guadix offers cave house accommodation if you want to experience sleeping underground — it is surprisingly comfortable and wonderfully cool. Setenil de las Bodegas has become increasingly popular with tourists, so visit early in the morning or late afternoon for a quieter experience. The Calle Cuevas del Sol is the most photographed street, but explore the back streets too for equally impressive rock formations. Both towns have excellent tapas — Andalusia is the home of free tapas culture, so order a drink and food arrives with it.
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